8 minutes
The Last Bus, Route 375 | A Beijing Urban Legend
The last bus always smells different from the rest.
It is not a smell you can name easily—not sweat, not diesel, not the metallic tang of a city that has been running all day and is too tired to stop. It is the smell of endings. The smell of things that should have gone home hours ago but are still here, still moving, still waiting for something no one on board can name.
Route 375 ran from Xizhimen to the northern suburbs, a long serpentine crawl through the dark arteries of Beijing’s winter nights. By the time the last departure rolled out of the terminal at eleven-forty, the city had already gone quiet. The neon signs of Wangfujing were dark. The hutongs had pulled their shutters down. Even the stray dogs had found their corners.
The bus was nearly empty that night.
The driver, a thick-set man named Lao Liu who had driven this route for seventeen years, counted four passengers when he pulled out of Xizhimen. A young couple sat in the back, their heads tilted together, sharing earphones and the private silence of people who had run out of things to say to each other. Two rows behind the driver, a young man in a thin windbreaker sat alone, staring out the window at nothing. And in the very front, right behind Lao Liu, an old woman in a thick padded jacket clutched a cloth shopping bag on her lap.
Lao Liu knew this passenger. Everyone on the night shift knew her. She was Grandma Zhang, who lived near the Qinghe stop and rode the last bus home every night after visiting her daughter in the city. She was small and quiet, the kind of old woman who seemed to take up less space than she physically occupied. She always sat in the same seat. She always got off at the same stop. She always said “thank you, driver” in a voice so soft you almost missed it.
The bus rumbled north through the empty streets. Streetlights flickered past in rhythm, throwing brief yellow rectangles across the passengers’ faces. Outside, the city thinned. Apartment blocks gave way to construction sites, then to stretches of darkness punctuated only by the occasional factory wall.
At the Yuanmingyuan stop, two more passengers got on.
They climbed the steps slowly, one after another. Both wore old-fashioned dark jackets with the collars turned up, the kind of clothing that looked like it belonged in a photograph from another decade. Both kept their heads down, their faces hidden. The first one shuffled to the back and sat down without a sound. The second one slid into the seat directly next to the young man in the windbreaker.
That was when the smell changed.
The young man—his name was Xu Liang, and he was a graduate student heading home after a late night in the university lab—noticed it immediately. The air around him grew cold and damp, like the breath from an open freezer. His skin prickled. He turned his head slightly, trying to get a look at the person beside him, but the passenger’s face remained hidden behind the high collar of that strange dark jacket.
Xu Liang told himself he was being stupid. It was late. He was tired. The heating on these old buses was never reliable in winter. He turned back to the window and watched the darkness swallow the last recognizable landmarks.
Five minutes passed. Then ten.
The bus entered a long, unlit stretch of road. There were no streetlights here, no buildings, nothing but bare winter trees on both sides and the shallow pools of the bus’s headlights pushing weakly against the black.
Grandma Zhang’s hands began to tremble on her shopping bag.
At first it was barely noticeable—a faint tremor, the kind an old person might have from cold or age. But it grew. Her knuckles went white. Her whole body began to shake.
She turned around in her seat and fixed her eyes on Xu Liang.
“You!” she shouted, her voice cracking with something that sounded like fury. “You stole my wallet!”
Xu Liang blinked. “What? I didn’t—”
“Don’t lie to me, you little thief!” Grandma Zhang was on her feet now, jabbing a bony finger at his face. “I saw you! You reached into my bag when I wasn’t looking! Driver, stop the bus! We’re going to the police station!”
The young couple in the back stirred, pulled from their private world by the commotion. Lao Liu glanced in his rearview mirror, sighed heavily, and pulled the bus to the side of the road. He had seen this before—old people got confused at night, accused the wrong person, made a scene. Better to let them sort it out than to have her screaming all the way to Qinghe.
Grandma Zhang grabbed Xu Liang by the sleeve and dragged him off the bus. Her grip was shockingly strong for a woman her age. Her fingers dug into his arm like iron hooks.
“Walk,” she hissed. “The police station is back that way.”
Xu Liang was too stunned to resist. He stumbled along beside her as the bus doors hissed shut behind them. The engine rumbled. The headlights swung away. Route 375 pulled back onto the dark road and disappeared into the night.
They stood alone in the freezing darkness. No streetlights. No houses. No sound but the wind moving through bare branches.
“Grandma,” Xu Liang said, his voice shaking from cold and confusion, “I really didn’t take your wallet. Please, you can search me, I don’t have—”
“Quiet.”
Grandma Zhang’s voice had changed completely. The quavering fury was gone. In its place was something flat and cold and perfectly calm. She was no longer trembling. She stood very still, her eyes fixed on the empty road where the bus had vanished.
“I never had a wallet,” she said.
Xu Liang stared at her.
“The two people who got on at Yuanmingyuan,” she said slowly, still not looking at him, “did you see them clearly?”
“I… no. They had their faces hidden.”
“There were three of them.”
“No.” Xu Liang shook his head. “Two. I counted. Two people got on.”
Grandma Zhang finally turned to face him. In the faint starlight, her face looked ancient—not old in the way of years, but old in the way of stones and bones and things that have been buried in the earth for a very long time.
“Two got on,” she said. “But the one who sat next to you was not the one who walked past me. The one who walked past me had no feet.”
The cold that went through Xu Liang then had nothing to do with the winter night.
“He was floating,” Grandma Zhang continued, her voice barely above a whisper. “Three fingers of air between his shoes and the floor. I saw it. I’ve been riding this bus for eleven years. I know what a person looks like when they walk. That… thing… did not walk. It drifted.”
Xu Liang’s mouth opened, but no sound came out.
“When I accused you of stealing, I was giving you an excuse to get off. If I had told the truth—if I had started screaming that there was a ghost on the bus—what do you think would have happened? Panic. Chaos. And those things would have known we knew. They would have—”
She stopped. Her head snapped toward the north, toward where the bus had gone.
A sound reached them. It was distant, muffled by the curve of the road and the density of the winter air, but unmistakable: the shriek of twisting metal, followed by a deep, resonant splash.
Then silence.
Lao Liu’s bus never arrived at the Qinghe stop. When the morning shift driver arrived at the depot, they found the vehicle submerged in a reservoir three kilometers off the route, its front end crumpled against the concrete bank. The doors were still sealed. No one had gotten out.
Inside, they found three bodies: the driver, still gripping the wheel. The young couple in the back, their hands still clasped together. No one else.
The two passengers who had boarded at Yuanmingyuan were never found. No one in the neighborhood recognized their descriptions. No one had seen them waiting at the stop.
And in the reservoir water that had filled the bus, divers found something strange: footprints on the interior ceiling. Bare footprints. As if something had been walking upside down inside the bus while it sank.
Xu Liang never rode Route 375 again.
He finished his degree, moved to Shanghai, got a job at a tech company, and tried very hard to forget. But every winter, when the nights grew long and the streetlights flickered past his window, he would remember the iron grip of an old woman’s hand and the words she had whispered to him on that dark, empty road.
“Three fingers of air between his shoes and the floor.”
Grandma Zhang died two years later. Natural causes, her daughter said. Peaceful, in her sleep. But the neighbors who prepared her body for the funeral noticed something strange: her hands were clenched into fists, and they could not be opened, no matter how gently they tried.
It was as if she was still holding on to something.
And every night, somewhere in Beijing, the last bus on Route 375 still rolls out of Xizhimen at eleven-forty. The drivers who have taken over Lao Liu’s route say nothing unusual ever happens anymore. The bus is quiet. The bus is empty. The bus is always exactly on time.
But sometimes, when a new driver takes the night shift for the first time, the older drivers pull him aside and give him a piece of advice. They say it casually, the way you might remind someone to check their mirrors.
“If an old woman ever accuses someone of stealing something,” they say, “believe her. Always believe her.”
They never explain why.
They never have to.